Simmer pots in the Entrevins restaurant in Valencia
I had thought of another topic to write today in the special on cooking with fire, but chance meant that the day before yesterday I went to eat at Entrevins restaurant in Valencia and discovered their "spoon" menus and simmering pots.
Due to its appearance and decoration, sober and elegant, but modern, it does not seem the place where one is going to find spoon dishes. Rather small tastings with which to pair its extensive and well-chosen wine list, always advised by the magnificent French sommelier, Guillaume Glorie, owner of the place and the only golden nose in the city, as well as national champion of sommeliers.
However, its philosophy is closer to market cuisine, and although it offers different appetizers, the main dish is a pot cooked over low heat; in our case, fabada.
I have to admit, that when we were told that the spoon dish of the day was fabada, my father and I looked at each other sideways, we smiled, and we couldn't help but joke about how complicated it was going to be for that fabada to exceed my grandmother's ( Asturiana ella), cooked with love from the night before.
But before we could put it to the test, skeptical of us, we enjoyed the appetizers: foie flan with Pedro Ximénez reduction, beach cuttlefish meatball in sauce and cockles with celery cappuccino and Leon jerky. The foie is delicious, the meatball is very tasty and the cockles are not so good.
The aperitifs are accompanied, in the hands of Guillaume, by a glass of white wine from Viña Ijalba, made with the recently recovered variety of Maturana grape, a fact that the sommelier commented.
To accompany the fabada, a red wine: Cambrico tempranillo, aged 2003 (14 months in French oak barrels), from the Sierra de Francia in Salamanca. Very powerful but with freshness, fruity, with good acidity and, I transcribe, “with rounded tannins”. Magnificent.
Thus, with suitable wine on the table, we began to examine, suspicious, the fabada. A simple spoonful was enough for our taste buds to go into a state of excitement. A round flavor, powerful but full of nuances, invaded our mouths and made our hearts happy.
Fabada is a dish that requires a lot of love, attention, and a very slow fire. Something that is rarely present in a restaurant, always with many things to attend to and in a rush.But this fabada lived up to the name on the menu; Well-bound broth —although there are those who like it more soupy—, beans just right — whole, but melting in your mouth — and a strong but slightly acidic sausage, all served in a charming clay pot.
After the imposing bean stew, our body asked us for a dessert, so there we went to taste two: a hazelnut sponge cake with apple and caramelised aubergine and textured chocolate over whipped vanilla cream.
The chocolate was rich, and offered a great variety of textures, just as promised: creamy, crunchy, liquid… but it was more of a little experiment than a real pleasure. The sponge cake, on the other hand, was a surprising delight, with a delicate touch of cinnamon and the incredible caramelized aubergine.
A round meal, accompanied by wonderful wines, in a friendly atmosphere and impeccable service - you are usually served by Gillaume himself or a charming waitress. My father, who is an enthusiastic one, is already waiting for them to change the main dish to try another pot over low heat.
Calle Reina Doña María 3
Tel. 963 333 523
Price: 30 euros per person
More information | Entrevins Restaurant
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